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    职业装的缝制注意事项
    2015-7-24 14:11:26
    缝制是济南职业装制作中相当重要的一个环节,缝制的好坏直接决定了职业装的美观度及舒适度.
    Sewing is a very important part in the production of professional equipment, the quality of the sewing directly determines the beauty and comfort.
    当缝纫的方向与这些职业装面料的经向方向平行时,嵌入的缝线会把经纱迫离原位,因每针缝线都会经纱推开,经过多针积累所产生的偏差会沿着接缝的布身收缩从而导致车缝起皱,当缝纫的方向与这些职业装面料的纬向方向平行时,通常较少起皱.而根据经验显示,在对角中斜向的接缝则不会起皱,大多数职业装面料,只要使接缝处于经度或纬度的斜角15度方向,就足以避免起皱.因此,可考虑使用斜裁方式作业.必要时,可在职业装面料上涂抹平滑剂.
    Smearing on the oblique diagonal stitches when sewing direction with these professional clothing fabric warp direction parallel, embedding the warp forced off in the first place, because each stitch will warp away after needle accumulation deviation along the seams of the cloth body contraction resulting sewn wrinkling, when the sewing direction with these professional clothing fabric weft direction parallel, usually less wrinkle. And according to the experience has shown that, in the oblique joints will not wrinkle, most professional clothing fabric, as long as the seam in the longitude or latitude 15 degrees direction is enough to avoid wrinkling. Because of this, consider the use of oblique cutting mode operation. When necessary, in the professional wear fabric smoothing agent.
    此外,应尽可能地使用细针.因为细针能明显减少在穿过职业装面料时所产生的阻力,故有防止缝缩起皱的效果,同时要注意经常更换新针.
    In addition, should as far as possible the use of fine-needle. Because fine needle can obviously reduce the resistance generated through professional clothing fabric, so it is prevent the seam shrinkage wrinkle effect. At the same time, we should pay attention to regular replacement of the new.
    当使用合成缝纫线时,必须小心确定缝线的张力,应使张力调整到最低.底线张力必须调整到:当缝线自由移动的末端拉起时,底线梭心轴及外套慢慢向下滑动,面线与底线的张力必须保持一致,使它们恰好在两层职业装面料之间交织.合成缝纫线缝入职业装面料的张力太大,会自动收缩以缓和这种张力,这种现象会使沿着接缝的布身收缩,进而使接缝起皱.
    When the use of synthetic sewing thread must carefully determine the suture tension, should be made to adjust the tension to a minimum. The bottom line tension must be adjusted to: when the suture to move freely in the preflare. Bottom line spindle the spindle and coat slowly sliding downward, surface line and the bottom line tension must be consistent, making them just in two layers of professional clothing fabric intertwined. Synthetic sewing thread sewn into the professional installed fabric tension is too large, will automatically shrink to ease the tension, this phenomenon will make along the seams of the cloth body contraction, and thus make the seam pucker.
    还要注意的是因上层职业装面料与压脚之间的摩擦力,也会迫使送布牙上的下层职业装面料移动更为迅速而导致接缝起皱.只要把压脚的压力尽量调低些,同时使用细牙的送布牙(输送器),降低缝纫机的回转速度就可以避免送料产生的起皱,而完全解决这种问题的根本方法是采用具有差动送料或针送料机构的缝纫机.如何减轻面料车缝时缝缩起皱现象.济南职业装www.ymsfs.com/
    Also note is for professional upper formation the friction between fabric and presser foot will force the send cloth teeth on the lower professional clothing fabric moving more rapidly and leads to the seam pucker. As long as the pressure foot pressure as far as possible to reduce. At the same time, the fine tooth cloth feeding teeth (conveyor), drop low sewing machine rotary speed can avoid feeding produced wrinkling, and completely solve the problem of the basic method is used with differential feeding or needle feed feed mechanism of the sewing machine. How to reduce the fabric sewing when sewing shrink wrinkle.
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